For many, the journey of a winemaker is a global pursuit, driven by an ever-evolving passion that can root them in unexpected corners of the world. In the heart of Illinois, just outside Springfield in New Berlin, I found such a compelling story at Danenberger Family Vineyards, where Susan Danenberger has cultivated a true love for the art of wine. Sitting with Susan, tasting her wines, one could easily imagine being transported to the famed vineyards of California, a testament to the quality and passion she pours into every bottle of Danenberger Family Vineyards wine.
Susan’s path to winemaking was a transformative one. Initially in IT, life took a new direction after her battle with breast cancer. At 40, this pivotal moment led her to UC Davis, a renowned institution for enology studies. There, she forged lasting connections with other women winemakers, a network that continues to this day. Interestingly, some of the grapes that contribute to Danenberger Family Vineyards’ exceptional wines are sourced from vineyards in Washington state, owned by one of these very Davis colleagues.
The land on which Danenberger Family Vineyards stands has been in Susan’s family since the 1800s, traditionally used for corn and soybean farming. Susan, representing the fifth generation, broke ground as the first to plant grapes 12 years ago. She initially experimented with hybrid varieties like Regent, Marquette, and Oberlin Noir. Over time, her vision evolved, leading her to replace most of these with Cabernet Franc, except for the Oberlin. In 2013, Danenberger Family Vineyards officially opened its doors, marking a new chapter for the family land and Illinois wine.
While the Danenberger family continues to lease out portions of their land not dedicated to grape cultivation, the winery and tasting room have become the defining feature of the property. Weekends at Danenberger Family Vineyards transform into a vibrant social hub, thanks to “Wine Rocks.” Every Friday and Saturday, the winery’s stage comes alive with different bands, creating an atmosphere filled with music, wine, and community spirit. Adding to the experience, Susan’s son operates a pizza oven on-site, making Danenberger Family Vineyards a complete destination for relaxation and enjoyment.
Danenberger Family Vineyards is truly a family affair, extending to the thoughtful details of their wine labels. Each label subtly honors Susan’s father, featuring a pixelated image of him as a tribute to his crucial role in bringing the winery to life.
Turning to the wine itself, I was curious to know Susan’s perspective on what grape best represents Illinois wine. Despite her deep affection for Cabernet Franc, Susan believes Chambourcin deserves the title of the state grape.
Cabernet Franc: The Heart of Danenberger Family Vineyards
Cabernet Franc is undeniably Susan’s true passion, and the Cabernet Franc wines produced at Danenberger Family Vineyards stand shoulder-to-shoulder with notable examples from regions like Napa or Paso Robles. I had the privilege of experiencing a vertical tasting, sampling vintages from 2013 up to a barrel sample of the 2016 Cabernet Franc.
The 2013 Cabernet Franc, known as “Carmin,” was exceptional. The drought conditions of that year allowed the grapes to mature longer on the vine, resulting in a wine that is rich, smooth, and remarkably well-developed. This Carmin Cabernet Franc truly embodies the essence of Danenberger Family Vineyards’ winemaking philosophy and quality.
In comparison, the 2014 Cabernet Franc presented a leaner profile, with less development. The 2015 vintage, however, showcased more body, with prominent cherry notes and a hint of pepper. Sampling the 2016 Cabernet Franc from barrels revealed exciting nuances. One aged in a Bourbon barrel exhibited more pronounced tannins and is slated for a limited release called “Carmin after Dark.” Another standout from 2016 was aged in hybrid barrels, constructed with French oak sides and American oak tops and bottoms. This particular Cabernet Franc echoed the quality of the 2013, displaying excellent balance and a peppery finish that enhances the dark fruit flavors.
The “Carmin” label for the Cabernet Franc is intentionally sensual. For Susan Danenberger, “Carmin” is a powerful statement, celebrating beauty and sensuality after surviving breast cancer, making it a poignant tribute to breast cancer survivors.
Exploring Other Wines at Danenberger Family Vineyards
While Danenberger Family Vineyards also produces wines like Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Seyval Blanc, several others stood out as personal favorites during my tasting.
The 2016 “Papermoon,” a blend primarily of Chardonnay with Viognier and Albarino, offers a refreshing wine experience with a Burgundian character, achieved through stainless steel fermentation.
The 2017 “Lovelocks,” a Rosé crafted from Chambourcin, presents a delightful sweet and savory profile, with distinct almond and spice notes on the finish. Susan playfully refers to this grape as the “stilettos” of the vineyard, adding a touch of personality to this unique rosé.
The 2013 “Rouge,” a blend of Syrah, Marquette, Arandell, Marechal Foch, and Oberlin Noir, impressed me as an easy-drinking yet well-balanced and modern wine with a distinctive style.
Finally, the 2012 “Coup de Foudre,” a creative blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Viognier, Leuenberger, and Cabernet Franc, showcases Susan’s innovative approach. She masterfully blends hybrids and Vitis vinifera varieties, seemingly drawing upon her UC Davis training, Washington grape sources, and her Illinois roots to create truly unique wines.
For anyone planning a visit to Springfield, Illinois, a day trip to Danenberger Family Vineyards is highly recommended. It’s an opportunity to discover the unexpected passion and quality of Illinois wine, right in the heart of the Midwest.
