The decision by Quaker Oats to retire the Aunt Jemima brand name and logo has sparked considerable controversy, and among those most affected are the descendants of women who portrayed Aunt Jemima. Larnell Evans Sr., the great-grandson of Anna Short Harrington, a Syracuse woman who embodied Aunt Jemima for nearly two decades, has voiced his strong disapproval of this change. He argues that removing the image and name is not a step towards racial equality but rather an erasure of his family’s history.
“This is an injustice for me and my family,” Evans stated in an interview with Patch. “This is part of my history, sir.” His words highlight the deep personal connection his family has with the Aunt Jemima legacy, a legacy now being questioned and ultimately altered due to its roots in racial stereotypes. Evans contests the notion that the image itself is inherently racist, pointing out that his great-grandmother’s portrayal was a job and a part of her life after slavery. He sees the move as an attempt by a company profiting from past imagery to distance itself by erasing the contributions of Black women like his great-grandmother. “The racism they talk about, using images from slavery, that comes from the other side — white people. This company profits off images of our slavery. And their answer is to erase my great-grandmother’s history. A black female… It hurts,” Evans expressed, emphasizing the emotional impact of this decision on his family.
Anna Short Harrington’s journey as Aunt Jemima began in 1935 when she was discovered by Quaker Oats representatives at the New York State Fair in Syracuse. Her talent for pancake cooking led to her being hired as an actress to travel across North America, promoting Aunt Jemima products and serving pancakes. From 1935 to 1954, Harrington became the face of the brand, following in the footsteps of Nancy Green, a former slave who was the first to portray Aunt Jemima starting in 1893. Harrington’s connection to Syracuse was strong; she cooked for numerous fraternity houses at Syracuse University and is buried there. She was the third woman to take on the role, embodying the character that had become synonymous with breakfast for generations.
Anna Short Harrington, known as “Aunt Jemima,” at a 1954 home show, a portrayal now causing family upset due to the brand’s controversial change.
Quaker Oats’ decision to retire the Aunt Jemima brand, as announced on Wednesday, stems from the recognition that its origins are “based on a racial stereotype.” The brand’s inception in the 1890s drew from a vaudeville song and imagery deeply embedded in minstrel shows. This included the “mammy” kerchief, a symbol that depicted Black women in servitude roles, contentedly serving white families. While the kerchief had been previously removed from the logo, the company acknowledged that the entire premise of the brand was problematic in today’s social climate. Amidst the nationwide protests against racial injustice following the death of George Floyd, Quaker Oats stated their aim to “make progress toward racial equality.” This decision has had a ripple effect, prompting other brands like Uncle Ben’s, Cream of Wheat, and Mrs. Butterworth’s to also reassess their potentially racially charged logos and branding.
Evans, a 66-year-old Marine Corps veteran residing in North Carolina, believes that instead of erasing history, companies should acknowledge and address the past in a more meaningful way. He argues that his great-grandmother’s work as Aunt Jemima was a legitimate job after the era of slavery and should be recognized as such. “This woman served all those people, and it was after slavery. She worked as Aunt Jemima. That was her job,” Evans said. He questions the fairness of erasing this history and its impact on his identity as a Black man connected to this legacy. “How do you think I feel as a black man sitting here telling you about my family history they’re trying to erase?”
The family’s history with Quaker Oats extends beyond the current brand change. Evans and a nephew had previously engaged in a legal dispute with the company, alleging unauthorized use of Harrington’s pancake recipe. Their lawsuit, seeking $3 billion in royalties, was ultimately dismissed in federal court because they were not recognized as executors of her estate. This past legal battle adds another layer to Evans’s current frustration with Quaker Oats’ decision. He suggests that instead of rebranding, “white corporations” that have historically profited from Black characters should focus on providing restitution. “They’re not going to give us nothing? What gives them the right?” he questioned, highlighting a sense of entitlement and historical debt.
Quaker Oats, owned by PepsiCo, has announced plans to introduce a new name and branding for its pancake mix and syrup by the fourth quarter of 2020. In addition to the rebranding, the company has committed to a five-year, $400 million initiative aimed at supporting Black communities and increasing Black representation within PepsiCo. While Quaker Oats frames these actions as steps towards racial equality, for Larnell Evans Sr. and his family, the removal of Aunt Jemima feels like a painful erasure of their personal and family history, leaving them feeling upset and unheard in this sweeping brand overhaul.
