Pappy Van Winkle. The name alone conjures images of rare bourbon, long lines, and exorbitant secondary market prices. It’s the bottle that ignites comment sections and fuels the frenzy of whiskey collectors. But does Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year live up to the deafening hype? Is it truly worth the chase, the cost, and the near-mythical status it has attained? Like many, I was eager to find out, to cut through the noise and offer an honest assessment of this much-sought-after bourbon. You’ve likely heard snippets of the Pappy Van Winkle story, perhaps through the pages of “Pappyland” or even the silver screen portrayal in “Heist.” Consider this review as a deeper dive into the liquid itself, an exploration beyond the brand lore, focused on what’s in the bottle today.
The lengths people go to for a taste of Pappy are, frankly, astonishing. I’ve witnessed firsthand the almost comical desperation in liquor stores, the quick in-and-out inquiries ending in frustrated expletives. Acquiring Pappy has become a symbol, a trophy in the competitive world of whiskey collecting. I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have won a raffle back in the winter of 2021 at Craft Beer Cellar in Westford, MA. Naturally, I selected the Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year, a bourbon I had previously only dreamed of encountering. Even with a touch of skepticism, knowing the vast landscape of whiskeys available, the excitement was palpable, akin to meeting a long-admired icon. Then, the anticipation began.
This has to be extraordinary, right?
The waiting game commenced. What occasion warrants opening a bottle held in such high esteem, perched at the perceived summit of the whiskey hierarchy?
As it turns out, no grand occasion is necessary. Sometimes, the best moments are shared with good company. Recently, I opened this Pappy Van Winkle 15 with a close friend (whose identity shall remain confidential to avoid any bourbon-related bribery attempts). The crucial question: was it any good? Before diving into my detailed tasting notes, let’s set the stage with the essential details and then proceed with a fair, standardized whiskey evaluation. They say “never meet your heroes,” but I prefer to greet them head-on. Let’s explore if 15 years in oak at Buffalo Trace has truly transformed this bourbon into a whiskey pinnacle, or if the reality is a bit more grounded.
Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year: The Specs
Distillery: Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery (Buffalo Trace)
Category: Kentucky Straight Wheated Bourbon
Mash Bill: Undisclosed (Corn, Wheat, Malted Barley)
Proof: 107°
Age: 15 years
Release: 2021 (Annual Fall Release)
MSRP: $120 (Highly Suggestive)
Tasting Notes: Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year Bourbon
Nose: The immediate impression is undeniably oak-driven. A musty, yet appealingly sweet barrel funk rises from the glass. Deep, dark oak aromas are dominant, intertwined with notes of molasses and damp earth. Rich leather and a subtle hint of brown sugar emerge with deeper inhalations. The nose paints a classic picture of an aged, oaky bourbon. Delicate layers of decaying flowers, cinnamon stick, and a touch of mulled wine add to the overall complexity. While pleasant, the aroma profile doesn’t reveal any significant depth and leans towards a profile seemingly crafted for “smoothness.”
Returning to the nose after a few sips, there’s minimal evolution. The glass remains enjoyable to explore aromatically, but ultimately lacks remarkable character. There are no off-putting notes, but the overall impression is of a well-aged, yet somewhat generic, bourbon nose. Late in the nosing experience, vanilla tones become more prominent, hinting at marshmallow, but stopping short of fully developing into that richer territory. The empty glass leaves behind a pleasant scent of caramel, raisin, and a faint, summery sunscreen note.
Palate: The first sip delivers subtle cherry skins, cinnamon spice, and a wave of oak, reminiscent of being surrounded by wood in a grand dining room. Subsequent sips echo this profile, with a vague cherry sweetness taking center stage. Cherry is a common flavor characteristic in Buffalo Trace distillate, and this Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year shares similarities with an Eagle Rare 10 year single barrel selection. A delicate vanilla note adds a touch of creaminess, softening the potential spice from the cinnamon and oak. Much like the nose, the palate experiences limited development as you continue to sip. The mouthfeel is sticky and sweet, with the cherry notes leaning towards a maraschino-like profile. A longer sip and swirl amplify the cinnamon spice, drawing a parallel to Weller Antique 107. However, I’ve certainly encountered Weller Antique single barrel picks that surpass this Pappy 15 in overall quality and complexity. Even towards the end of the glass, the flavor profile remains consistent: simple cherry and oak. Some might describe this as elegant simplicity. I find it leaning more towards blandness; smoothness prioritized over depth and intrigue. My final sip is not a poignant farewell to a memorable whiskey, but rather a quiet acknowledgment of a pleasant, yet ultimately unremarkable, cherry note. This is a one-trick pony, performing a show that doesn’t warrant a repeat viewing. The finish is short and sweet, lacking any noteworthy lingering character.
Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year Bourbon: Final Thoughts and Rating
TL;DR: A very average, classic Buffalo Trace bourbon profile with straightforward oak and cherry notes.
Rating: 3/5
"Decent. I can go either way on it." rating image for Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year Bourbon
The truth, as much as hype might try to obscure it, is that Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year is not a liquid miracle unattainable by others. It’s fundamentally classic Kentucky bourbon, and Buffalo Trace consistently produces whiskeys of comparable quality across their various lines. The brand’s current prestige is largely built on the legacy of those who quietly established its reputation. The Stitzel-Weller era Pappy Van Winkle bottlings are the ones that rightfully earned perfect scores and fueled the initial fervor. Today’s Pappy Van Winkle, including this 15-year expression, is not the same spirit. It shares similarities with Weller bourbon, perhaps with occasional barrel selections intended for this premium label. It lacks the distinctive richness and history cultivated by figures like Julian Van Winkle Sr., Jr., and III, and Marci Palatella. It’s disappointing to witness such a respected legacy seemingly diluted into a modern, somewhat unremarkable bourbon. Yet, the chase will undoubtedly continue. At least until more drinkers experience it firsthand and offer honest assessments against the broader whiskey landscape. Is Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year a worthwhile release? Certainly. A 15-year-old bourbon is a notable addition to any shelf. However, whether it justifies the relentless pursuit and inflated secondary market prices is a question each individual must answer.
Curious about how other 2021 Pappy Van Winkle releases fared? I’ve also reviewed the Lot “B” and Old Rip Van Winkle from the same year. In a ranking, I would place them in this order:
This Old Rip Van Winkle release possesses the depth and richness I seek in whiskey. In a recent blind tasting featuring Pappy 15, Old Rip Van Winkle, and George T. Stagg, the latter two clearly outperformed the Pappy 15, at least in the 2021 editions. George T. Stagg showcased the most compelling palate, closely followed by Old Rip Van Winkle, with Pappy 15 trailing behind. It reinforces a sentiment I’ve shared within my whiskey circles:
Modern Pappy is, regrettably, overrated.
Cheers, friends.
