“Praise, like gold diamonds, owes its value only to its scarcity.”
- Samuel Johnson
The Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year, a coveted release in Buffalo Trace’s annual limited allocation, often finds itself overshadowed by the bourbon expressions like the Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year or the legendary, oak-heavy Pappy Van Winkle 23 Year. In the frenzy of each “Pappy allocation season,” this rye whiskey is notoriously difficult to obtain, even for seasoned whiskey hunters. Adding to the scarcity, a significant portion of these rare bottles are treated less as a spirit to be savored and more as a valuable commodity, frequently used as trade bait in the secondary market or flipped for profit.
This begs the question: why does the Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye command such a high secondary market price, often exceeding $1,250 – more than ten times its suggested retail price of $120? Is it an unparalleled rye whiskey experience, a taste of liquid history that justifies the hype and exorbitant cost? Driven by curiosity and a commitment to genuine whiskey exploration, I decided to crack open a bottle of the 2023 Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye to discover the truth for myself.
Upon opening the bottle, I noted the inclusion of an NFC tag beneath the foil, a feature now common in Buffalo Trace’s premium releases, particularly within the Antique Collection. This near-field communication technology, powered by Selinko, serves as a measure against counterfeiting. The Buffalo Trace app seamlessly interacted with the tag, providing authentication and bottle status, as demonstrated in the screenshots below, showing both unopened and opened bottle scans.
Having previously voiced my concerns about the modern Pappy Van Winkle craze potentially overshadowing the actual whiskey experience, and noting a slight disappointment in some modern Pappy expressions, I maintain a balanced perspective. While Buffalo Trace undoubtedly produces exceptional whiskeys, many contemporary Pappy releases, in my experience, haven’t fully lived up to the legendary reputation of the Stitzel-Weller era. A notable exception is the Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year bourbon, which remarkably echoes the profile of Weller Antique bottlings, especially considering they share the same 107 proof point. In blind tastings, I’ve even struggled to decisively prefer the Old Rip over Weller Antique 107, highlighting the subtle nuances that can sometimes be overshadowed by branding and hype.
Considering the perceived similarities in liquid quality within certain Buffalo Trace offerings, the significant price premium on Van Winkle products often seems driven more by masterful marketing capitalizing on the nostalgic allure of the Stitzel-Weller legacy. While branding plays an undeniable role in the perception of value, it’s crucial to evaluate the whiskey itself. Interestingly, the 2023 Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye marks my first personal encounter with this particular expression. I have, however, sampled various vintages of Sazerac 18 Year Rye, another Buffalo Trace rye whiskey, with experiences ranging from exceptional to somewhat underwhelming across different releases. Before drawing definitive conclusions about the Van Winkle 13 Year Rye, let’s delve into the tasting notes and allow the whiskey to speak for itself.
Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year – Detailed Tasting Notes
Distillery: Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery (Buffalo Trace)
Type: Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey
Mash Bill: Buffalo Trace Rye Mash Bill (estimated 51% rye content)
ABV: 95.6° Proof
Age Statement: 13 Years
Release: 2023 Limited Allocation, MSRP $120
Nose: Initially, the aroma presents a fleeting hint of bright lemon peel, detectable from a distance. However, closer inspection in a Glencairn glass reveals a more subdued profile. Deeper inhalations unveil delicate notes of brown sugar, subtle milk chocolate, and a touch of sugary rock candy. The aromatic intensity is initially restrained, prompting me to employ the swirling technique to encourage further expression. This action releases a more pronounced wave of aromas, including licorice, strawberry cotton candy, and a distinct bubblegum sweetness. Honey emerges as the dominant sweet note, accompanied by a subtle floral hint of gardenia. As the glass warms, the aroma evolves, suggesting a potentially sweeter palate profile, perhaps making it well-suited for warmer weather sipping. Beneath the floral and sweet layers, savory undertones of anise, cornbread, and fennel seed emerge, interwoven with hints of molasses and a subtle black pepper spice. While the nose offers a layered experience, the aromas are undeniably delicate and could easily be missed if approached hastily. A final note of dry oak appears, unfortunately diminishing some of the initial playful sweetness. At this stage, a sip is certainly warranted to further explore its complexities.
Following the initial sips, subsequent nosing reveals an enhanced graham cracker note. A faint metallic edge seems to have developed, adding a subtle complexity. Overall, the nose evokes the image of a side dish often overlooked – like plain carrots at a Thanksgiving feast. Pleasant, but not the main attraction. Later in the nosing experience, more appealing notes of coconut shavings, honeyed caramel apple, and whipped cream emerge, providing the most rewarding aspects of the aromatic journey. The empty glass leaves a lingering scent of muddled mint, milk chocolate, Angostura bitters, and a whisper of reserved tobacco, reminiscent of a quiet winter forest.
Palate: The first taste of Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year is surprisingly gentle, landing softly with a subtle linen-like texture and a touch of dusty funk that initially graces the back palate. This is quickly followed by a delicate candied sweetness that tickles the tip of the tongue. Nuances of honeysuckle, light maraschino cherry, and a hint of grape popsicle contribute to a fluffy, almost ethereal sweetness, bordering on being too subtle. Subtlety is indeed the defining characteristic here. A slightly savory fondue-like sensation emerges, accompanied by indistinct charcuterie board notes, adding a whisper of complexity that remains elusive.
Another sip brings forward the floral notes detected on the nose, particularly jasmine and lavender, which intertwine with a slow, honeyed sweetness. The mouthfeel is notably thin, lacking substantial body. Further exploration reveals a pleasant sipping experience, perhaps even mirroring the nose as a more appealing warm-weather dram. However, it doesn’t offer any groundbreaking revelations. Delicate honey sweetness, a light, ladyfinger-like puffiness on the palate, and a vaguely fruity linger form the core profile. Hints of cherry cordial, elderflower liqueur (with a similar perceived ABV lightness), and mint provide a basic introduction to rye spice, lacking significant character beyond a noticeable barrel influence.
The final sips and swishes emphasize delicacy above all else, followed by soft cream puff and raisin notes on the finish. The mouthfeel remains thin, wispy, and slightly drying, reminiscent of well-steeped black tea, before a brief linger of anise, allspice, and peppermint. The finish is incredibly fleeting, highlighting the wood influence that is otherwise understated throughout the tasting. Caramel and a lightly drying, vaguely tannic oak presence linger as a distant afterthought.
Overall Impression: Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year presents as a gossamer-light rye, almost defying the legal definition of rye whiskey with its delicate profile. It drinks like a subtly flavored cup of black tea enjoyed on a warm summer evening – pleasant and easy-going, but lacking significant depth or intensity.
Rating: 3/5
"Decent. I can go either way on it." rating image
In conclusion, the Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year, while possessing some redeeming qualities, ultimately falls short of justifying its exorbitant secondary market price. The complexities expected from a whiskey of this caliber seem to have been blended into near-oblivion, resulting in an anemic profile. It does, however, deliver on the “smooth” descriptor often found in official descriptions, perhaps to an excessive degree. In many ways, it drinks similarly to a younger Sazerac 18 Year Rye, which, in essence, is likely its closest relative. While not unpleasant, and possessing moments of nuanced charm, the Van Winkle 13 Year Rye doesn’t warrant the hype or the price tag. If, after reading this review, you are still inclined to experience this elusive rye, I recommend pairing it with the appropriately titled song “Gossamer Thin” by Conor Oberst. Until our next whiskey exploration, cheers to the ongoing quest for exceptional spirits!
