For seventy years, the sign has proudly declared it, and Totem Family Dining in Everett, Washington, has lived up to the name, serving generations with hearty meals and warm hospitality. While the sign may claim 70 years, local lore and the current owner, Steve Jermyn, trace the building’s restaurant history even further back, potentially to 1947. Originally known as the Totem Drive-In, it evoked the classic American diner experience with carhops and counter service reminiscent of iconic Americana films.
Alt text: Nostalgic menu board at Totem Family Dining displaying past prices, highlighting the diner’s long history and appeal to customers seeking classic American diner experiences.
In 1953, Bliss and Joyce Settergren took the reins, transforming the drive-in into a full-fledged sit-down restaurant. Those were the days when a dollar bought you a plate of ham and eggs, and a cheeseburger combo with fries and a shake was a mere 73 cents. Triple XXX Root Beer? Just a dime. A vintage menu showcasing these prices hangs near the entrance, a charming reminder of the Totem’s enduring legacy. “Hardly a day passes without someone wanting to order from that old menu,” a waitress shared during a recent visit, underscoring the diner’s nostalgic charm and appeal as a piece of Everett history.
The Settergren era lasted until 2011 when they retired and passed the torch to Steve and Alicia Jermyn. The Jermyns haven’t just maintained the Totem’s historical essence; they’ve amplified it, making it a beloved and bustling hub for breakfast and lunch in Everett. Rain or shine, especially on weekend mornings, a cheerful crowd gathers outside, patiently waiting for a table, a testament to the enduring popularity of Totem Family Dining. Even on a typical Friday morning, the diner is vibrantly alive with the happy buzz of satisfied customers.
A Menu That Truly Offers Something for Everyone at Totem Family Dining
The phrase “something for everybody” feels like an understatement at Totem Family Dining. The breakfast menu alone boasts an astonishing 41 combo plates, not even counting the ever-changing monthly specials that add even more variety. This incredible range has consistently earned Totem Family Dining the title of “Snohomish County’s Best Breakfast” by the Everett Herald every year since 2014. This recognition highlights the diner’s commitment to quality and variety, making it a top destination for breakfast lovers.
Alt text: Cozy interior of Totem Family Dining, showcasing its classic diner ambiance and comfortable seating, inviting families and individuals to enjoy a relaxed meal.
When complimented on the menu’s vastness, Steve Jermyn chuckles, “It’s monstrous.” He inherited a substantial menu from the Settergrens, which he admits was even larger initially. “One of the first things we realized from a business standpoint was the need to streamline it,” Steve explains. However, some items he considered cutting, like liver and onions, had a fiercely loyal following.
“I thought I was going to get run out of town! People came after me with metaphorical pitchforks,” Steve jokes, highlighting the passionate attachment customers have to their favorite Totem dishes. “Not a huge number order it, but those who do, really, really love it. And truthfully, there aren’t many places left that still serve it.” So, liver and onions remain. The same goes for corned beef hash, which now comes in two versions to cater to different preferences.
“It’s funny because we had the standard, canned corned beef hash. It’s a perfectly fine product, and I personally enjoy it. But I wanted to create our own version using our house-made corned beef,” Steve says, drawing on his family’s background as “pit masters.”
“We take brisket, brine it for weeks, then smoke it and slice it. Part of it becomes Reuben sandwiches, and the rest is chopped for our signature corned beef hash, which we call the Totem Hash. It’s easily our number one breakfast item.”
The Totem Hash is a flavorful and hearty dish, grilled with red and gold potatoes, bell peppers, and onions. It’s served with two eggs and toast, accompanied by their delightful freezer jam. Observing the portion sizes, it’s clear “ample” is an understatement. Even sitting at the counter, the sheer size of the Totem Hash order next to me is impressive. This generosity extends to almost everything on the menu. The pancakes, famously, are larger than your head.
“I’ve actually considered removing the full stack of pancakes from the menu because it’s almost comical,” Steve laughs. “Portion control isn’t really our motto.”
Fortunately, quality absolutely is. During my visit, the strawberry waffle arrived piled so high with whipped cream that the strawberries were almost hidden beneath, a delightful abundance. For an even richer experience, you can choose the house-made Totem Cornish Cream, made with cream cheese, at no extra charge. Despite the generous toppings, the waffle remained wonderfully crisp and light.
Totem Family Dining prides itself on scratch-made goodness. They bake oversized biscuits and plate-sized cinnamon rolls in-house. Their pancakes aren’t from a mix; they’re made from scratch. They create their own sauces and gravies. The kitchen staff cuts their own chicken, hand-forms hamburger patties, and makes fresh French fries daily.
“We strive to be as scratch-made as possible,” Steve emphasizes, highlighting their commitment to fresh, quality ingredients and preparation.
The menu also includes lighter options like “lite bites,” salads, soups, and sandwiches, ensuring variety for all tastes and appetites. Dietary substitutions are readily available, including sugar-free syrup, gluten-free bread, and fruit instead of hashbrowns, showcasing their dedication to accommodating diverse needs.
Good Food, Great Service, and Wonderful Customers Define the Totem Experience
Beyond the delicious food, the service at Totem Family Dining is remarkably efficient and friendly. Waitresses move with practiced ease, a “weird ballet” as Steve describes it, constantly refilling coffee cups and attending to customers with genuine warmth. The staff clearly enjoys their work, and it shows. Rachel, a waitress for eight years, attributes it to the customers.
“It’s because of the customers,” she says. “They are truly the best.” She’s also a strong advocate for the food. “The food is top-notch, and even though prices have increased, [Steve] has never sacrificed the quality, which is fantastic. And there’s so much history here.”
Sonny, nicknamed “Taz,” also a long-term employee of eight years and Steve’s son, echoes this sentiment. He’s just as personable and outgoing as his father.
“This is one of the best teams we’ve ever had,” Sonny shares. “Restaurants can be revolving doors, but we have a really solid group right now.” He also emphasizes the importance of the customers. “I really love them. Before working here, I was always in the kitchen doing prep, so this is the first time I’ve been able to work upfront and let my social side shine.”
Sherry, another waitress, agrees. “I love the atmosphere, my coworkers. We work together so well as a team.” Her personal menu favorites are the Eggs Benedict and the chicken fried steak. “It’s incredible,” she raves.
An Optimistic Outlook and a Legacy of Laughter
Steve Jermyn’s optimism is evident. He values his employees and navigates challenges with resilience. Like many in the restaurant industry, the COVID-19 pandemic presented significant hurdles.
“The shutdown was sudden, and we had $6,000 to $10,000 worth of produce in the refrigerator,” Steve recounts. “We immediately started distributing it to employees and donated a lot to the local food bank.” Initially, they anticipated a two-week closure. “We thought, okay, two weeks, we can manage that. We had projects we’d been wanting to tackle. Then two weeks turned into four. Okay, let’s replace the walk-in freezer floor. We had to empty it anyway, so we shut it down. Then it became another month. Okay, let’s chip up the floor and redo the plumbing – it was all original from the 1930s. After the third month, it was clear this wasn’t ending quickly.”
Despite the prolonged uncertainty, they persevered. Steve credits the restaurant’s sound financial footing pre-pandemic for their survival. He managed to keep most of his staff employed.
“It was truly by the grace of God that we made it through, but we did.”
Steve also continues a beloved tradition started by Bliss Settergren: posting jokes on the Totem’s roadside sign. Bliss originally used quotes from American authors, offering “little bits of wisdom.” Steve aims to keep the humor fresh and engaging, often drawing inspiration from customer suggestions and notebooks filled with ideas.
“If you can brighten someone’s day as they drive by, that’s a cool thing,” Steve says, reflecting the diner’s role as a community touchstone.
The Story Behind the Totem: A Piece of Everett’s Cultural Heritage
The name “Totem Family Dining” itself is derived from a significant piece of local history: a story pole (similar to a totem pole) that once stood near the restaurant’s location. The story of the pole is both inspiring and poignant. William Shelton, a respected Tulalip cultural leader, carved the impressive 64-foot-tall, double-sided pole in the early 1920s. It featured 16 images illustrating stories from the Salish tribes. Shelton explained his motivation: “The white man teaches children to be kind, good, generous, honest, brave; and the old Indian teaching was exactly that; then the thought came to me that it would be well to record these Indian lessons or stories so that they would last for a great many years, and so I set about carving the Totem Story Pole.”
Originally erected in downtown Everett in 1922, the pole was moved in 1929 to a new location. By 1996, age and weather had taken their toll; the pole was cracked and rotting. The city removed it for restoration. According to The Everett Herald, the restoration cost $15,000, but experts estimated that outdoor re-installation would only grant it another 15 years of life. Sadly, this important piece of cultural heritage currently resides in a Parks and Recreation greenhouse, awaiting a suitable indoor home.
While the Totem Story Pole awaits its next chapter, the future of Totem Family Dining is undoubtedly secure, grounded in satisfied customers and a steadfast commitment to quality, community, and delicious family dining.
Discover more about Totem Family Dining on their website here.
